San Ignacio Lagoon holds a vital place in the history and conservation of the gray whale, originating from a dramatic past of exploitation and now standing as a sanctuary.
The lagoon was initially noted by whaling captain Jared Poole, who was connected by family ties to Charles Melville Scammon, a renowned whaler known for exploiting gray whale breeding lagoons in the mid-19th century. Scammon led the first major whaling expedition to San Ignacio Lagoon in 1860, along with six whaling ships. Despite the dangers of the lagoon’s narrow, shallow entrance and sand bar shoals, several daring captains took the risk. This led to extensive hunting and marked the beginning of near-extinction levels for Eastern Pacific gray whales.
San Ignacio Lagoon is a remote site located approximately 59 kilometers (36 miles) from the town of San Ignacio and the main Highway 1. Today, the lagoon’s community is small, with fewer than 100 residents who rely on fishing and whale watching for their livelihood. The lagoon stretches 16 miles into the desert and spans up to five miles wide, divided into three sections, each serving unique roles in the gray whale’s life cycle.
In the upper lagoon, the shallowest part, pregnant whales come to give birth. In the middle section, mothers travel with their newborns, helping them acclimate to tidal flows in preparation for the lower lagoon. It is here, in the expansive lower section, that most social interactions occur among them. Male and female gray whales gather, seeking mates, while mothers and calves travel together, building strength for their eventual migration north to the Arctic feeding grounds.
In 1988, Mexico included San Ignacio Lagoon in the Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve, Latin America’s largest wildlife refuge. As the last untouched nursery and breeding site for the Pacific gray whale, this lagoon is an extraordinary sanctuary. San Ignacio Lagoon also supports other endangered species, such as the pronghorn antelope, as well as four endangered sea turtle species: Leatherbacks, Hawksbills, Green Turtles, and Olive Ridleys. Due to its ecological importance, the United Nations declared San Ignacio Lagoon a World Heritage Site in 1993, recognizing its critical role within the global community. This status affirms the lagoon’s invaluable position as a conservation stronghold for gray whales and other species, embodying the impact of dedicated international and local efforts.
The transformation of Mexico’s Laguna San Ignacio from a site of near-extinction-level hunting to a sanctuary for Pacific gray whales is a story of resilience, recovery, and unique interspecies curiosity. In the protected waters of this lagoon, located on the western coast of Baja California Sur’s peninsula, Pacific gray whales—often weighing up to 40 tons—have begun regularly approaching humans in their boats, creating one of the world’s most captivating and intimate wildlife encounters. Known locally as “the friendlies,” these gentle giants now appear as curious about human beings as humans are about them, leading to unforgettable interactions and sparking questions among researchers and visitors alike: why do these whales actively seek human contact?
Each year, from January through mid-April, thousands of gray whales migrate over 19,300 kilometers from the icy waters of the Arctic to the warmer, protected waters of Laguna San Ignacio to breed and give birth. For them, this is a sanctuary where they can nurse their calves without threats. However, it wasn’t always this way. Decades ago, these animals were hunted to near extinction, and their numbers plummeted. But after conservation measures were enacted and Laguna San Ignacio became a protected sanctuary, gray whales began reappearing, and a remarkable behavioral shift became evident: they started approaching boats, seemingly seeking interaction with humans rather than avoiding them.
This shift in behavior has had a profound impact on the local eco-tourism industry and on conservation efforts. Pure Baja Travels, an eco-tourism company owned by local guide José Sanchez, has been facilitating respectful whale-watching excursions for years, providing visitors a chance to experience these close encounters while adhering to strict conservation regulations.
On a recent trip with Sanchez, a female gray whale approached a stationary fishing boat repeatedly, even pressing her white-speckled side up against the hull, as though she wanted a closer look at the passengers on board. Her eye—roughly the size of a baseball—met the eyes of several onlookers, eliciting delighted exclamations. The boat’s engine was off, and the group sat in respectful silence as they seemed to “check out” each of them in turn, an experience made even more poignant by the knowledge of the species’ near brush with extinction.
Such encounters aren’t a matter of luck; they are the result of careful regulation and planning. Whale-watching in Laguna San Ignacio is restricted to specific zones within the protected sanctuary. To prevent overwhelming them, only 16 pangas (small fishing boats) are permitted within these zones at any time. When a they approaches, guides are required to turn off boat motors to avoid disturbing the animal. And perhaps most crucially, the interaction is initiated entirely by the whales themselves; boat operators are instructed not to chase or approach the animals.
According to Dr. Steven Swartz, a cetacean researcher who has dedicated over 45 years to studying Pacific gray whales at Laguna San Ignacio, the choice to engage is left up to the them. “The guides put you in the presence of the whales, and let them decide if they’re going to come over and say hello or not,” Swartz explains.
For Swartz and other marine biologists, these encounters provide a rare window into the behavior of gray whales and their reasons for approaching humans. Unlike other watching sites worldwide, where interactions are brief or opportunistic, Laguna San Ignacio is the only place where gray whales frequently linger around boats and interact closely with humans. According to Swartz, this unique behavior likely stems from the absence of predators and threats in the lagoon.
Unlike their time in the Arctic, where they must focus on feeding to build up fat reserves, the gray whales in Baja’s warmer waters are free to relax and socialize. Swartz suggests that this may even lead to a certain boredom, prompting them to seek out interactions as a form of entertainment or exploration. “Mammals are curious; they are sentient enough to learn about their environment, and they learn by exploring,” Swartz says, noting that they tactile nature may further drive them to seek physical contact with boats and people.
This curiosity also appears to be learned behavior, passed down from mothers to calves, who grow up observing their mothers’ interactions with boats and humans. “[The whales] are capable of remembering,” Swartz adds, suggesting that over generations, the whales have come to view humans as non-threatening.
In fact, during Sanchez’s tours, it’s not uncommon to see mother bringing their young calves to the boats, almost as though they’re proudly introducing their offspring to their human admirers. These interactions not only delight tourists but also serve as an important educational and conservation tool, reminding visitors of the need to protect these gentle giants and their fragile habitats.
Today, the presence of these gray whales and their interest in human contact serves as a testament to the power of conservation. For decades, they were in Laguna San Ignacio and beyond were hunted for their oil, meat, and baleen. The species was driven to near extinction, and their numbers reached critical lows. However, thanks to international conservation efforts and protective legislation, they have rebounded in population, and Laguna San Ignacio remains one of the few undisturbed breeding and calving areas for these animals.
For the locals of Baja California Sur, the resurgence of these mammals has also revitalized eco-tourism in the region. Responsible whale-watching has become a significant industry, with tour operators like Pure Baja Travels creating sustainable and regulated experiences that allow tourists to witness this unique phenomenon without causing harm to the whales.
The curiosity of these mammals has also piqued the interest of scientists, leading to ongoing research to better understand the whales’ complex behaviors. Observing gray whales up close has provided valuable insights into their social structures, communication patterns, and emotional capacities. Unlike their larger relatives, gray ones lack a dorsal fin, which allows them to swim close to shorelines and maneuver easily in shallow lagoons, making them well-suited to the warm, protected waters of Baja’s coast.
Known for their resilience, these whales undertake one of the longest migrations of any mammal, traveling over 19,000 kilometers each year from the icy waters of the Arctic to Baja’s lagoons, where they give birth and nurture their young before beginning the journey back north. For scientists like Swartz, the willingness of gray whales to engage with humans in Baja California Sur is a reminder of the adaptability and intelligence of these remarkable animals.
While the reasons behind the their behavior in Laguna San Ignacio remain partially speculative, researchers like Swartz are committed to understanding the motivations behind these unique interactions. Whether driven by curiosity, playfulness, or simply boredom, the behavior of gray whales in Baja serves as a striking example of interspecies connection and a symbol of hope for conservationists. Swartz’s long-term research in Laguna San Ignacio has focused on studying these interactions, not only to gain insights into whale behavior but also to advocate for the protection of the whales’ habitats, ensuring that these encounters can continue for generations to come.
Ultimately, the presence of them in Baja and their willingness to approach humans illustrate the impact of conservation efforts and the possibilities that arise when humans take action to protect the natural world. The fact that these animals, once so relentlessly hunted, now voluntarily seek out human contact is a remarkable story of trust and resilience. It serves as a reminder of the importance of conservation, education, and responsible eco-tourism in preserving the delicate balance between humans and wildlife. For those fortunate enough to visit Laguna San Ignacio and experience an up-close encounter with these friendly giants, the memory is one that will undoubtedly linger long after the whales have returned to their Arctic feeding grounds.
The story of gray whales in Baja California’s San Ignacio Lagoon is one of transformation, resilience, and human dedication, marking a global conservation success. Hunted nearly to extinction in the 18th and 19th centuries, these whales were once feared and aggressively avoided by local fishermen who even nicknamed them “devil fish.” However, a pivotal encounter in 1972 changed this relationship.
A local fisherman, Francisco “Pachico” Mayoral, while out fishing, encountered a fish that approached his boat and lingered nearby. When he extended his hand, the whale, far from aggressive, rubbed against it, marking the beginning of a remarkable relationship between gray whales and the people of Baja California. This act of curiosity and trust from the set off a cascade of changing perceptions, and soon locals began experiencing similar encounters. As stories spread, more people began to realize that gray whales were not the fearsome animals they had once thought.
José Sanchez, the first Mexican naturalist to guide whale-watching tours in the lagoon, explains that they are naturally curious and have long been inclined to investigate objects floating in the water. The species’ curiosity was met with aggression from humans in the past, which led to their defensive behavior. But since Mayoral’s peaceful encounter, locals saw that gray whales weren’t the feared “devil fish.”
Over time, they began to allow them to get closer, finding enjoyment and a deep appreciation for these unique interactions. The concept of responsible, community-driven eco-tourism grew from this foundation, with Sanchez establishing his own eco-tourism company with a base camp at San Ignacio Lagoon, encouraging more intimate, safe, and sustainable interactions.
By 1972, the Mexican government designated San Ignacio Lagoon as a nature reserve, and in 1988, it declared the area a sanctuary within the El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve, which is the largest wildlife refuge in Latin America. This dedication to conservation culminated in 1993 when the lagoon gained recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Consequently, the gray whale population recovered enough to be removed from endangered species protection in 1994. That same year, Mayoral alerted environmentalists of a proposed salt factory by Mitsubishi and the Mexican government within the nature reserve.
This massive industrial project, which could have severely impacted the lagoon’s delicate ecosystem, was opposed by a robust local and international coalition, including high-profile activists such as Robert F. Kennedy Jr. and actor Christopher Reeve. Their activism, along with support from residents, ultimately prevented the salt factory’s construction, marking a major victory for wildlife conservation and setting a global example of what community efforts can achieve.
Mayoral, who passed away in 2013, is remembered as the “savior of gray whales” and the grandfather of Baja’s whale-watching movement. His family still operates whale-watching tours today, providing visitors a chance to experience the trust and curiosity of gray whales firsthand. “Eco-tourism is the economic basis for the community. People here watch over the lagoon and work together to coordinate sustainable watching so they don’t destroy or overuse this valuable resource,” says Dr. Steven Swartz, who has been studying these species in Baja California for more than 45 years.
Pure Baja Travel’s eco-tours provide guests with an immersive experience, offering six whale-watching outings over five days to maximize chances of meaningful encounters. When not out on the water, guests learn about conservation efforts underway to protect both the whales and the local ecosystem. As these gray whales migrate away in April, the camp closes down to allow the natural environment to recuperate.
The experience of staying at a tented base camp on the banks of the lagoon, surrounded by the sounds of whales, offers travelers a rare connection to these animals. Swartz and other locals believe that this intimacy and the sight of the whales’ heart-shaped vapor spouts leave visitors with a lasting appreciation for the lagoon’s beauty and biodiversity.
As climate change impacts ecosystems worldwide, the importance of conservation in places like San Ignacio Lagoon has become even more urgent. The lagoon’s waters, once threatened by industry, now face new challenges, with environmental changes impacting both the lagoon itself and the whales’ migratory paths. Xiye Bastida, a young climate activist from Mexico, is working to inspire the next generation to continue protecting these whales and their habitat. At just 22 years old, Bastida is co-producing a documentary, The Whale Lagoon, which aims to connect current conservation efforts with the climate challenges of today.
Her work with WildCoast, an international nonprofit with a 25-year history in gray whale conservation, helps to amplify the voices of local residents and conservationists. WildCoast’s co-founder and executive director, Serge Dedina, has been instrumental in securing the permanent protection of 450,000 acres of whale habitat in the San Ignacio Lagoon area. This organization has worked tirelessly with the Mexican government since 1988 to maintain the lagoon’s status within the El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve. Dedina views Laguna San Ignacio as a global model for sustainable wildlife protection.
Dedina and WildCoast work to train ecotourism guides, support outreach programs, and empower women-led mangrove restoration projects. Restoring mangroves, which can sequester 10 times more carbon than tropical forests, is crucial to mitigating the impacts of climate change. Residents around Laguna San Ignacio fight each day to protect these ecosystems and limit development in and around the lagoon to maintain a balance that benefits both wildlife and the local community.
For Bastida, the presence of these whales is a reminder of the responsibility humans have to protect the natural world. She describes the overwhelming sense of connection she feels when a whale lifts its calf for visitors to touch. This “immense amount of trust” between human and whale, she believes, challenges people to act as stewards for these animals. “They’re more than just friendly whales,” she says. “I think they are conscious whales, asking us to be more conscious too.” Bastida hopes that The Whale Lagoon will inspire viewers to connect with nature, fostering a newfound commitment to protect these animals and the environment
With challenges such as climate change, Laguna San Ignacio and its gray whales need continued protection. The lagoon stands as a powerful example of community-driven conservation, with local and international groups working to safeguard the delicate ecosystems of Baja California. For those who visit, the experience is more than just a whale-watching trip; it’s a journey into a world where people and animals coexist, learn from each other, and, together, face an uncertain future. In the heart of Baja California, the San Ignacio Lagoon remains a place of trust and resilience, proving that with dedicated community efforts, even the largest of creatures can find sanctuary.
